Mark Birley (1930-2007) will not, despite some fears, just be remembered as the first person to wrap muslin around lemon halves in his restaurants to keep the pips in when they are squeezed over the fish. He will mainly be remembered as the founder of clubs such as Annabel's and Mark's and for his neat turnout and habitual Cohiba cigar. Another former Davies & Son customer, his demise was a great loss to the true breed of sophisticated British Men About Town.